穿越在地球的最高处——青藏线 - 风光摄影

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<a href='http://wacaphoto.xwork.net.cn/default.aspx?g=posts&t=320' target='_blank' >点击查看完整主题页面</a> 主题：穿越在地球的最高处——青藏线(回复于：2010/11/12 16:51:26) 回复内容：<hr/>&nbsp;可以直接贴上（用复制/粘帖） 
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<h1>青藏线骑行攻略</h1>
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<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" style="word-wrap: break-word; empty-cells: show; border-collapse: collapse; line-height: normal; width: 627px; table-layout: fixed; margin-left: 1px; ">
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 <td id="postmessage_8769035" style="word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(68, 68, 68); font: normal normal normal 12px/1.6em Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 1.6em; font-size: 14px; ">特别说明：本攻略所有资料，特别是路况资料，均根据最新的网友骑行游记整理而出，希望对你的骑行有所帮助！ 
 首先说明：由于青藏线人烟较少，物资匮乏，且由于路况较川藏线好（水泥路多、险路少），故很多自驾游西藏的车均从青藏线进出。旅游业的发达致使饮食、住宿等费用都比较贵，很多地方都为旅游区价格。你要有心理准备的是：青藏线的花费肯定比川藏线要多得多！所以：青藏线之行，已经不能算是穷人之旅了！ 
 你可以自己制作WORD打印版的攻略，包含每日地图和图片。制作方法如下： 
 &nbsp; &nbsp;1).必须登录到本网站后，按以下操作：IE菜单&ldquo;编辑－全选&rdquo;，&ldquo;编辑－复制&rdquo;，打开Word，&ldquo;粘贴&rdquo;，略经整理后，打印。这将是带照片、地图的详细攻略。打印页数约63页。 
 &nbsp; &nbsp;2).不要登录到本网站后，按以下操作：IE菜单&ldquo;编辑－全选&rdquo;，&ldquo;编辑－复制&rdquo;，打开Word，&ldquo;粘贴&rdquo;，略经整理后，打印。这将是仅带地图的详细攻略。打印页数约31页。（推荐） 
 楼层说明： 
 &nbsp;&nbsp;1F&nbsp;&nbsp;总述、更新记录、网友游记地址 
 &nbsp;&nbsp;2F&nbsp;&nbsp;装备问题、注意事项、其他说明事项 
 &nbsp;&nbsp;3F-8F&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;详细攻略，从西宁至拉萨，共21天 
 &nbsp;&nbsp;9F&nbsp;&nbsp;轻羽飞扬：关于青藏线的几点忠告，说说高原反应 
 10F&nbsp;&nbsp;网友提问简答 
 青藏线骑行攻略－资料汇总贴（资料持续更新中......） 
 太丢脸了，发了这个题目过后，我都不知道该怎么继续往下面写了，因为相对于川藏南线来说：青藏线应该是比较轻松的，虽然沿途海拔较高，但相对于川藏线的上上下下，这基本上全是在海拔3000以上骑行。唯一我们要翻的山，估计就是唐古拉山了。 
 青藏线北起格尔木，南至拉萨，全程约1164公里，平均海拔在4500米以上，途中需翻越昆仑山口、风火山口、大小唐古拉山口、申格里贡山口、念青唐古拉山口等海拔5000米以上的高山垭口；需穿越荒凉的可可西里无人区和光袤的羌塘草原；需跨越昆仑河、楚玛尔河、沱沱河、通天河等河流，几大山脉的绵延白雪，加上高原特有的蓝天白云，使得青藏线可以用一个词语来概括：壮阔！ 
 广义上的青藏公路起点为青海省西宁市。青藏公路最低点格尔木海拔2800米，最高点唐古拉山垭口5231米，整体平均海拔4500米以上。公路北端穿越寸草不生的茫茫戈壁滩；中段穿过渺无人烟的可可西里自然保护区；南端则穿越广袤无垠的羌塘草原。这里的高海拔让普通人望而却步，被人们称为&ldquo;生命禁区&rdquo;。 
 &ldquo;高寒缺氧&rdquo;是青藏高原自然环境的最简要的概括。高原的气候之恶劣往往让初到高原的人惊讶不已。在一天之中，可能会经历四季的天气，刚刚还是艳阳高照，转瞬间就大雪纷飞。而在这种恶劣的环境下，却仍然生活着大量的野生动植物。骑行在路上，时不时就能看到高原鼠兔飞快地奔回自己的巢穴；成群的藏羚羊、野驴在吃草嬉戏；苍鹰秃鹫展开翅膀翱翔在深兰色的天空中。它们为死寂的高原带来生命的活力，你不得不赞叹生命的伟大。高原的气候虽然恶劣，风景却壮美迷人，辽阔的草原、雄伟的雪山在四周撑起一幅色彩浓重的油画。苍凉、豪迈、雄壮、圣洁是青藏高原自然风景的主色调。 
 青藏公路已经建成50多年了，一直是从内地进藏的最重要最繁忙的通道。去年开通的青藏铁路几乎与它并行，是另一道靓丽的风景线。青藏公路从青海的汉文化圈边缘直入藏文化的核心，一路上的风土人情让人流连忘返。垭口处一团团一簇簇迎着狂风猎猎作响的隆达（经幡、风马旗），路边常见的一堆堆刻有六字真言的玛尼石，群山顶上终年不化的皑皑白雪都会给你以心灵的震撼。 
 有一条路，一条天路，我们一起走过（骑的自行车哈，嘿嘿）。 
 线路：青藏路（国道109）：西宁－都兰－格尔木－安多－那曲－当雄－羊八井－拉萨 
 我们可以选择的路线长度有两种： 
 1.&nbsp;如果你的时间准备较充分的话，你可以选择从西宁出发，预计途中花费时间为17-21天； 
 2.如果你的时间较紧张的话，你也可以选择从格尔木出发，预计途中花费时间为10-14天。 
 更新记录： 
 100602&nbsp;路况修改。 
 091026&nbsp;细节性修改，更新部分数据里程错误。 
 090708&nbsp;增加沿线海拔高度及里程详图，方便打印携带。 
 090614&nbsp;根据车友&ldquo;Fengling&rdquo;的路书添加沿途里程图。特别感谢车友&ldquo;Fengling&rdquo;！ 
 090220&nbsp;添加沿途地图，整理出可打印随身版本之攻略。 
 090219&nbsp;攻略稿件正式推出，接受各位意见和建议。 
 
 特别感谢： 
 1.网友梦回天涯，2008年7月底出发。共花费14天，其中&ldquo;都兰&mdash;诺木洪&rdquo;200公里为搭车。有照片。 
 <a target="_blank" style="word-wrap: break-word; text-decoration: none; color: rgb(0, 102, 153); line-height: normal; " href="http://www.doyouhike.net/forum/311153,0,0,0.html">http://www.doyouhike.net/forum/311153,0,0,0.html</a> 
 2.网友红珊瑚，2007年8月1日出发，8月22日到达。&ldquo;茶卡－格尔木&rdquo;一段搭车，途中休整一天。其中有个11岁的小女孩，超强！有照片。 
 <a target="_blank" style="word-wrap: break-word; text-decoration: none; color: rgb(0, 102, 153); line-height: normal; " href="http://www.biketo.com/bbs/thread-47254-1-1.html">http://www.biketo.com/bbs/thread-47254-1-1.html</a> 
 3.网友Pear0，2008年6月，格尔木至拉萨，有照片。 
 <a target="_blank" style="word-wrap: break-word; text-decoration: none; color: rgb(0, 102, 153); line-height: normal; " href="http://www1.biketo.com/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=62372&amp;page=1&amp;authorid=30032">http://www1.biketo.com/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=62372&amp;page=1&amp;authorid=30032</a> 
 4.网友轻羽飞扬，2007年8月，格尔木至拉萨，青藏线骑行快乐点滴－－《快乐的青藏，腐败的拉萨》，有照片。 
 <a target="_blank" style="word-wrap: break-word; text-decoration: none; color: rgb(0, 102, 153); line-height: normal; " href="http://www2.biketo.com/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=48800&amp;highlight">http://www2.biketo.com/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=48800&amp;highlight</a> 
 于装备问题，我想我就不用多写了，请参见以下网址： 
 <a target="_blank" style="word-wrap: break-word; text-decoration: none; color: rgb(0, 102, 153); line-height: normal; " href="http://www1.biketo.com/bbs/thread-51466-1-1.html">http://www1.biketo.com/bbs/thread-51466-1-1.html</a> 
 
 相对于川藏线，青藏线特别的注意事项如下： 
 1.青藏线的海拔高度比较高，故请提前做好高原反应的准备。推荐药品：高原安、丹参滴丸。红景天主要用于心理安慰。 
 2.青藏线人烟较川藏线稀少、物资非常匮乏，故饮食较川藏线贵。最实惠、方便、节约时间的午餐解决办法：馍馍夹榨菜。（这当然无法与川藏线相比了哈） 
 3.可以提供取款业务的地点有这些：西宁、格尔木、安多、那曲、当雄、拉萨。一般以邮政储蓄、农行、建行为主。 
 4.基本上到了高原,&nbsp;除了纳赤台和不冻泉的水,&nbsp;別的地方的水水质都很容易引致水士不服.&nbsp;其一原因是水质含矿物太重,&nbsp;二是开水都烧不到100摄氏度。&nbsp;瓶装水可能会成路上的一大开支,.&nbsp;青海地区是康师傅的天下,&nbsp;而到了藏区就变成了哇哈哈。而川藏线基本不用。 
 5.青藏线必须面对的是一个无法回避的难题：逆风。你只能说你会有心理准备。 
 
 
 网上最容易找到的全线地图 
 
 
 路程大概情况及沿线海拔简要立面图（参考图，让你先有心理准备） 
 
 
 详细路程情况及沿线海拔立面图1/4：西宁-巴隆（精确，建议骑行时随身携带。） 
 
 
 详细路程情况及沿线海拔立面图2/4：巴隆-五道梁（精确，建议骑行时随身携带。） 
 
 
 详细路程情况及沿线海拔立面图3/4：五道梁-安多（精确，建议骑行时随身携带。） 
 
 
 详细路程情况及沿线海拔立面图3/4：安多-拉萨（精确，建议骑行时随身携带。） 
 
 
 网友Fengling的热心帮助&nbsp;，18天版本路书，推荐随身携带（图片较小，请点击另存为，可下载。地名上为&ldquo;国道里程&rdquo;，下面为&ldquo;海拔高度&rdquo;） 
 青藏线食宿点说明: 
 1、食宿条件：在青藏线，除了一些大的市镇外，绝大部分地方食宿条件都比较简陋，在翻唐古拉山之前所有的食宿点，除了吃饭、住宿、打电话和商店补给外，其它的设施（银行，邮局、医院）基本上都没有，所以在从格尔木出发前，一定要估算好路上的花销，备好资金。翻过唐古拉山后，几个大的食宿点（安多、那曲和当雄）基本设施都比较完善，但银行也是以邮政储蓄、农业银行和建设银行为主。 
 2、工区和兵站：青藏线最多的就是工区（道班），而且工区内的工人对车友还是比较友好和客气的，如果去借宿，基本上都会满足你的要求，但也有一个问题，就象是通天河道班的工长给我们说的话：&ldquo;我们这房子大把的有，就是没有床和被子&rdquo;，所以如果确定去住道班，自己最好有防潮垫和睡袋。而兵站，可能是由于最近两年骑车的太多，人家已经不是非常愿意接待，所有的兵站要价都非常的高，一张嘴就是一个人六十（要知道一路上我们一般住的都是十元的，就是在那曲住的宾馆也才二十）。在唐古拉兵站，为了体验一下兵站的生活和气氛，讨价还价到六个人二百，结果发现住兵站有很多的不方便：门锁得早开得晚，兵站厕所不开放，半夜起来没处去，只好操场角落去。 
 3、原有地图的错误：在我看到的所有地图上，都有一些错误或者没有更正的地方，唐古拉兵站就是最典型的一个，地图记载，唐古拉兵站离唐古拉山口19公里，但唐古拉兵站早就下撤到离山口40多公里的地方，这让很多车友在安排行程的时候出现误差。 
 4、手机信号：从格尔木出来，联通信号全部消失，移动信号基本上全程覆盖，仅在唐古拉山口下到头道班后没有信号，雁石坪在房子里没有信号，但是出了房子多少会有一点信号。 
 5、在高原骑行，为躲开每天下午山口不期而至的雨雪，最好把翻越山口的时间安排在上午为好，因此，在安排头一天的住宿点的时候，应尽可能的选择在离山口较近的住宿点，如翻昆仑山前一晚应住在西大滩；翻风火山前一晚可以不住五道梁，住到离风火山口仅19公里的七工区；翻唐古拉山则住到离唐古拉山口47公里的唐古拉兵站。 
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 西宁有什么逛的呢？我也不知道哈。我们一起来看看。 
 西宁住宿推荐： 
 1.西宁理体青年旅舍：地址：国际村公寓5号楼16楼，电话0971-8202080 8202090&nbsp; 
 价位：六人高低床间25元/床，四人高低床间30元/床，单人间40元/床，豪华间120元/间 
 如何到达：从火车站打的到建材巷国际村公寓5号楼，费用约7元。可乘16、17、31、103路公交车，票价1元。 
 车辆的调试： 
 西宁王国章自行车俱乐部 
 地址.城东区南小街建身中心南侧。电话0971-8247598/3836635。 
 D1&nbsp;西宁（海拔2295）－湟源（海拔2626）－日月山（海拔3520）－倒淌河镇（海拔3298）－青海湖渔场（海拔3300）：133km，总里程：133km 
 
 西宁出发走国道，车比较多，开得飞快，灰也很大。请特别注意避让来往的车辆！ 
 我们可以考虑走西（宁）倒（淌河）高速公路。收费站设在中间多巴的位置，所以，你可以在西宁直接上高速。 
 西倒高速其实就到湟源，出湟源后就是一级公路，路况非常好，但是一路缓上坡。接近坡顶时，右边有一岔路去日月亭。两条路最终还是合在一起，只是去日月亭的路稍远稍高一点。去日月亭的路上车极少，路况极好，下坡极爽！！！我们推荐走日月亭这条路。 
 
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 去日月亭的路，车少路好。推荐走这里。 
 倒淌河这条河水传说是由文成公主的泪水汇流而成。美丽的公主远嫁西域, 遥望故土不禁悲从中来...... 
 为了能尽早的看到青海湖，我们再加把劲吧！倒淌河过后很快就进入湖区。 
 
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 青海湖边，今天的终点。远处即是青海湖，爽歪歪！ 
 D2&nbsp;&nbsp;青海湖渔场（海拔3300）－江西沟－黑马河（海拔3200）：85km，总里程：218km 
 
 昨天晚上也算是睡在青海湖边上吧，所以今天早上你要特别特别早点起床－－争取能看到青海湖的日出。这样更爽歪歪咧！ 
 由于昨天的急行军，今天的路程稍微缓一些。在慢悠悠看完日出，我们再出发吧！ 
 
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 今天的路 
 夏天这条线可以碰到很多骑车环青海湖的车友。 
 开始有点缓上缓下，后程沿着青海湖，基本是平路，如果逆风的话也不好走，景色很好，就是离青海湖太远。江西沟等地可以吃中午饭。 
 住宿推荐黑马河交通旅馆。 
 
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 青海湖和可爱的车车 
 D3&nbsp;&nbsp;黑马河（海拔3200）－橡皮山（海拔3817）－大水桥&mdash;茶卡（海拔3104）：80km，总里程：298km 
 
 附注：如果決定了搭车, 请今天早点出发。 
 今天的目的地茶卡沒有直达班车到格尔木，只有班车开往都兰(上午)。如果能在下午5时之前骑到茶卡，就有机会搭上由乌兰开往都兰的过路班车，省下一天。 
 当然可以包车或拦车, 但这里拦车不如青藏公路方便。 
 出黑马河就开始爬橡皮山，20公里左右缓上坡。在这个位置常常会遇到逆风。 
 
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 上橡皮山的路，有点像川藏线吧？ 
 
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 橡山上 
 下山过后，你就算进入的柴达木盆地。路边的景色，也渐渐从绿色转入黄色。－－我们慢慢开始进入都兰沙漠。 
 
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 下山过后的荒原 
 
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 接近茶卡 
 茶卡处在柴达木盆地，算是荒原上一颗璀璨的明珠吧。天路骑行（详细攻略2/6,4d-7d）
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 出茶卡20公里，开始翻越旺尕秀山（海拔3672米），大概上坡12公里到山口。过山口几乎没有下坡，而且一路遭遇逆风和下雨，气温很低。途中有藏民的三顶帐篷，里边可以补给、吃午饭。藏民非常热情，在阴雨绵绵、浑身哆嗦的骑行途中，能喝上一碗热气腾腾的羊肉汤，真是莫大的幸福。下午继续冒雨赶到都兰，几乎崩溃。这是我开始骑车以来最艰难的一天，几乎冻僵！ 
 
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 我们快到都兰啦！这10公里的林隐缓上坡路是不是很爽？ 
 在都兰可以买好明早8:30往格尔木班车票(最好能提前买)。 
 D5&nbsp;都兰（海拔3175）－香日德镇（海拔3093）－巴隆（海拔2971）：110km，总里程：538km 
 
 从都兰到格尔木的300公里左右，我们都将行进在在荒芜人烟的都兰沙漠。 
 选择体验一下骑行在沙漠，体验一下逆风或是顺风的骑行；选择每天早上8点半从都兰发往格尔木的班车（一天仅一趟，五小时到达） 
 一马平川的柏油路, 一成不变的戈壁荒滩, 除了沙子就是石头, 除了黃色还是黃色, 滿眼看不见一点生命颜色, 甚至连路的上升下降都沒有了...&nbsp; 
 
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 沙漠、电线、远山，无水...... 
 今天途中所见，香日德是个较大的城镇，前行约43公里到达今天的住宿地&mdash;巴隆。巴隆也不在路边，请注意路牌提示！ 
 D6&nbsp;巴隆（海拔2971）－诺木洪（海拔2852）：105km，总里程：643km 
 
 诺木洪乡离国道8公里，是个戈壁滩上的绿洲，平静而悠闲。 
 其实诺木洪路口处也有几处挂有住宿的牌子，可能也可以住，这样就可以免去进出诺木洪的十几公里路程了。 
 
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 已经破败的诺木洪工业区 
 D7&nbsp;&nbsp;诺木洪（海拔2852）－格尔木（海拔2815）：144公里，总里程：787km 
 
 从诺木洪路口开始，一路缓下坡。 
 大格勒乡在今天路程的中间。如果体力不行的话，你也得走来回约16公里的路，到这里住宿。 
 关于这里的风，或许你已经早有所闻。看你运气吧：顺风逆风，看老天爷了。其后会有逆风也会有顺风，有缓上也会有缓下，总之没有碰到极端天气的可能性较小，祝你顺利抵达格尔木！ 
 
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 格尔木沙漠的龙卷风，跟美国的比比差远了吧？ 
 
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 戈壁滩、我们的车 
 注意，格尔木的大型超市在晚上8:30就关门了，如需补给一定要注意。
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 <p align="center" style="word-wrap: break-word; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; line-height: normal; ">&nbsp;
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 我们的青藏高原骑行，才刚刚开始 
 到南山口之前， 有好几十公里是骑行在沙滩上， 柴达木盘地的边陲也荒涼得足以让人震憾......如果从茶卡到格尔木你是搭车的话，骑行这里，或多或少能弥补茶卡/都兰到格尔木路段的失落吧。 
 
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 西出格尔木 
 
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 南山，无水的河 
 从格尔木出发后约50公里， 是千里青藏公路第一桥－－昆仑一线天。 
 
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 昆仑一线天 
 这座毫不起眼的的石桥,,全长仅4米，稍不留意就一闪即过。声名在外的昆仑桥，原本跨越一道宽仅4米，深四十多米的石峡深涧。谷底幽深， 河水喧泻咆哮。险峻形势望之目眩；浪涛之声闻之胆怯。来往游客一般都凭高俯瞰一番。但不知何年何月修建了一道水电站，其桥下绝壁和百丈深谷已不复见, 令人唏噓。 
 再往前走就是纳赤台。纳赤台的昆仑神泉就在公路旁边, 和青藏铁路隔雪水河相望。 
 &ldquo;昆仑神泉流量大,并来自遥远的冰川雪水，常年不歇。神水中含有铁、锌、铜、锰、铬、钙、硒、钼、钴、氟、锶、镁、磷、镁、钠等多种对人体有益的矿物质和微量元素。饮用则有益身心， 洗面则有美白功效，随身则有防暑作用。功能强大又实用，实在是居家旅行、杀人放火之必备良水。&rdquo;哈哈哈！ 
 
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 昆仑神泉 
 一路缓上，没有很陡的坡，路况良好，水平爬升650米。接近西大滩时，壮美的雪山展现在眼前的同时，也可以看到荒凉的河床（我暂时还不知道这条河的名字）。 
 
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 远处会有雪山，这里就是荒凉的河床，我们还可以看到火车。这里开始算是在上青藏高原了吧！ 
 纳赤台到西大滩一共是38公里。骑到15公里左右的时候，你会看到－－青藏铁路沿线最高的大桥－－全长达690公尺的三岔河大桥。 海拔3800多米的高山峡谷中，这里是冲积地层形成的。 大桥的两端就悬架在地势陡峻的山崖之上， 一路排开总计20个桥墩， 最高13号墩达54米。 大桥当年施工难度列青藏铁路全线之首，直接关系这条天路建设的成败，也就引起了人们的广泛关注。 
 
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 三岔河大桥 
 109国道从桥底下穿过，骑到它的脚下，抬头仰望，你更会体会到气势非凡。 
 
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 名符其实的西大滩 
 我们来到了西大滩。一进小镇，就会看到路牌上写着&ldquo;青藏公路第一救助点&hellip;提供住宿&hellip;&rdquo;等。如果你前一晚是在纳赤台歇脚，并为找住处花了很多时间，此时看到有住处，而且还是公家的地方，相信你会马上去住下了，避免再次花很多时间去找住处。（青藏公路上共有七个这样的救助点。） 
 D9&nbsp;&nbsp;西大滩（海拔4110）&mdash;索南达杰烈士纪念碑－昆仑山口（海拔4767）&mdash;不冻泉（海拔4620）&mdash;索南达杰保护站（海拔4479）：86km，总里程：995km 
 
 前两天我们的进度实在是有些快，而今天，我们已经要进入可可西里无人区了，我们慢点吧。 
 可可西里是蒙古语，意为&ldquo;青色的山梁&rdquo;。 因为发音珥美丽的少女相近，因此可可西里又被误称为&quot;美丽的少女&quot;.&nbsp; 
 从西大滩出发G109-2882的10多公里路比较烂，坑坑洼洼的。经过玉珠峰侧20多公里慢上坡, 进入山区中上坡, 一路共计34km到昆仑山口。 山口几公里坡很陡, 海拔上升最高至4767米。 
 
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 昆仑山口的藏羚羊雕塑、&ldquo;山口&rdquo;字碑、2001年8.1级地震的震缝 
 
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 索南达杰烈士纪念碑 
 当看到索南达杰烈士纪念碑后，你会意识到：你已经完成了对昆仑山口的翻越。 
 过昆仑山口下一段不长的中下坡，接着起伏沿着大片干沽的河滩婉行, 22km到不冻泉, 海拔4607米。不冻泉因当地有一眼终年不冻的泉水而得名。 
 
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 一条条巨龙，翻山越岭...... 
 不冻泉地方虽小，却有吃有住，这里也是可可西里管理局的所在。 
 我们推荐你在这里吃午饭并小息片刻。不过这个小镇似乎只有两家饭馆，我们走进了那家回民店。松软的大沙发，骑车骑得PP生疼的你可能坐下去就不想走啦。 
 不冻泉的泉口很不起眼，就在一个弯路转入不冻泉之前的公路左侧，而可可西里管理局在公路右侧。 
 &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;另：回民店的店主是一位年轻男子。虽然条件简陋，但是店内打扫得很干净，他很勤劳呢；他会轻声地和我们聊天，言语间透出不卑不亢的态度；他还及时地给我们的茶杯添水，是一个细致的人；最后，他给我们算的饭钱也会很厚道。这，就是我们初次接触到的回民印象。 
 过不冻泉后先有几个大上坡，然后进入可可西里荒原, 33km起伏小下坡, 到达索南达杰保护站。一般情况下，你在这一段，能够见到高原上的精灵－藏羚羊。 
 
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 黄昏的可可西里 
 到索站之前的7-8公里, 还会经过一个中铁通讯工程站和相隔半公里的一个修路道班.。索南达杰保护站和站前对正的青藏铁路清水河特大桥是值得參观的地方。 
 
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 很多人想知道是做什么用的柱子。 
 附：热棒，其用途是加固铁路，防止路基下沉。青藏铁路有32公里路基采用了热棒措施。热棒利用管内介质的气液两相转换，依靠冷凝器与蒸发器之间的温差，通过对流循环来实现热量传导。当大气温度低于冻土的温度时，热棒自动开始工作，将地基的热量带出；反之，热棒自动停止工作，不会将大气中的热量带入地基。目的实际上是把地下的热散出来，防止冻土融化，保护公路或者铁路。 
 
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 索南达杰保护站，和当年的条件，已经不错了。 
 敬礼！自然保护站以索南达杰命名, 莽莽高原永远留傳这位英雄的事跡 --- 
 从1992年起, 索南达杰等工作人员12次深入可可西里, 行程6万多公里, 抓获非法持械盗猎団伙8个, 大力地打击了盗猎者的嚣张气焰。 
 1994年1月18日,&nbsp;索南达杰率领4名工作人员 抓获20个偷猎者, 缴获2000多张藏羚羊皮。偷猎者中两个是伤病员, 本着人道立场, 他派秘书和司机把两个伤病的盗猎者送往400多公里外的格尔木治疗, 自己和一个执法人员押送18名盗猎者和7辆车. 他留在最后一台车压阵. 在路上, 盗猎者借机反扑, 将前车的执法人员击昏并抢夺了武器.盗猎者远远的把6台车排成一列, 待索南达杰靠近, 歹徒打开6台车的大灯, 雪亮车灯炫目如昼, 一瞬间十数支自动步枪同时开火 --- 刽子手是如此的冷酷残暴, 这是他们屠杀藏羚羊的惯用手法.索南达杰全身多处中弹, 英雄至死都保持着半跪射击的姿势, 可可西里零下40度的严寒把他冻成了一尊不屈不挠的雕像。 
 这一年, 他39岁。 
 D10&nbsp;索南达杰保护站（海拔4479）－五道梁保护站（海拔4637）：55km，总里程：1050km 
 
 今天的路基本上是起伏的小上坡， 绝对海拔上升150米左右，偏逆风。所以，你不要以为今天的行程比较轻松！如果今天你想看什么风景的话，我只能回答你：没有！－－除了可可西里的藏羚羊。 
 
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 今天能见的藏羚羊 
 
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 今天的路，和荒凉的草原 
 
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 不远的五道梁，和破损的路。 
 五道梁自然保护站是继1996年民间组建索南达杰自然保护站之后， 于1997年由国家设立的三个保护站之一。 其余兩个分別是不冻泉自然保护站和沱沱河自然保护站。 
 恶名昭彰的五道梁座落在四周植被稀疏的山凹当中。那是一个典型的高原小镇。站在高点可以俯瞰整个小镇，完全说不上惊喜，但却让人感到重回人间的温馨。 
 因为我们相信：雪白的米饭， 暖和的床铺，你不想要吗？就不远了哈！ 
 对五道梁最广为人知的描述莫过于这句民諺, &quot;到了五道梁, 哭爹又哭娘&quot;. 这里海拔不到4700公尺, 在整个青藏线海拔也并不特別高, 但这里卻让人聞之喪胆---大风,空气稀薄,气候恶劣多变,使它和唐古拉山口並列为青藏公路高原反应多发之地。 
 关于应付五道梁的高反---合理安排行程避免过劳, 充分休息, 定时吃藥多喝水, 是预防引发高反的不二法门。 
 接近五道梁时有一段水泥路，路面已经完全被压裂了。 
 住宿推荐：五道梁交通旅社、临夏招待所 
 
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 朝圣者 
 今天的附题：我不能看到的朝圣者，一看到我就会流泪。 
 宗教信仰和日常生活已揉合成他們的现实，这是他們的生活。 
 我們以为艰辛的, 在他們看來是理所当然， 
 我們以为苦行的, 在他們看來是必然的生命轮回。 
 他們用心灵感受山河的脉搏 
 他們用身体丈量大地的起伏 
 满怀感恩 
 踏上朝圣之路, 那是天赐的福份 
 同样行走在青藏高原 
 我們只是过客 
 我们知道, 他们体会的快乐, 远超我的想象......
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 从五道梁出发，有些小的上下坡。今天起伏约70公里上坡至风火山口,距山口越近，坡也越陡。 
 翻越风火山时，看到青藏铁路高高地挂在山上，心里感觉十分郁闷。因为知道火车是穿越风火山隧道，而公路是翻越风火山的，也就是公路应该更高才是。我们推车的速度约有4~5km/h，爬山的大货车也好不到哪里去呢（偷笑中），吭哧吭哧地冒着黑烟，比我们稍快一点，有7km/h左右的速度。当我们看到风火山隧道的基建碑注明，风火山隧道海拔4906米，以为自己还要再爬一百多米，结果往前缓上不到一公里就到了风火山垭口（名义海拔5010米，其实4958米）。 
 
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 铁路和公路，同攀风火山 
 
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 名符其实的风火山---伴著终年不停的凜烈強风, 裸露的山体在阳光映照下彤彤如火 
 下山13公里左右到二道沟镇，别以为是下坡，结果是起伏路，而且你遇到逆风的可能性也很大哈，嘿嘿。 
 快到镇上时你首先看到的是沱沱河保护站，接站看到了这个小镇的全貌。这个小镇是如此的荒凉，到处是断壁颓垣，一片破败不堪的景象。 
 住宿推荐：唯一的那家饭馆，或者青藏公路第二救助点，均可以提供餐饭及住宿，不过后者条件应该稍好。 
 D12&nbsp;二道沟镇（海拔4779）&mdash;沱沱河镇（海拔4547）：63公里，总里程：1197km 
 
 今天的路程只有67km，虽然也是上坡下坡，但总体上海拔会下降约200米，如果没有逆风的话，应该是比较轻松的。不要灰心哈！ 
 
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 总算到达沱沱河 
 沱沱河镇是青藏公路青海段最大的镇子，因为是乡政府所在地，加上附近有三江源景点，吸引了很多游客，人气颇盛。卫生院、医疗救护中心、商店都有。 物资丰富得边青藏线上最稀罕的水果也有供应： 苹果、 梨子、 香蕉、萄葡......不过有点贵，看你舍不舍得买了。 
 如果提早到达, 定下住宿, 可以包车去长江源参观, 或者到沱沱河的网状河床上走走采风, 或到长江源大桥参观也不错。另外住宿是不成问题的，选择很多。因为旅游业的原因，这里吃饭较贵。特色餐味是：&ldquo;西宁餐厅&rdquo;的新鲜馍馍；公路面向南方的左边一家小店的粉汤（羊肉汤粉丝）。 
 住宿推荐：长江源宾馆，普通间25元/床，豪华间40元/床。不过你也不想期望太高，把这里的装备和西宁来比哈。 
 
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 顺流而下的长江 
 D13&nbsp;&nbsp;沱沱河镇（海拔4547）&mdash;开心岭&mdash;雁石坪（海拔4713）：90km，总里程：1287km 
 
 沱沱河镇出发19km起伏上坡路到开心岭坡顶。 
 
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 为什么开心？因为开始下坡了，20公里长下坡！ 
 接下来是61km起伏的小下坡+14km起伏小上坡沿河逆流而上到雁石坪。你遇到逆风的可能性很大。 
 接近雁石坪一路都是依山傍水。 
 雁石坪是个很大的城镇。海拔4712米，也已算是到了唐古拉山的脚下吧。 乍见雁石坪背山面水的景致, 还是有些喜出望外, 山上的经幡在风中飘扬, 来到这里已经可以看到很多藏族牧民，西藏的味道已经很浓厚。 
 
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 雁石砰 
 以前青藏路上有这样的说法：&ldquo;吃不在沱沱河, 住不在雁石坪。&rdquo; 
 虽说是镇, 规模也许会比我们想象中的大得多。沿公路旁排开的十多栋破旧的低矮平房, 外表都盖上一层厚重的泥灰。 
 因为地理位置刚好是青藏公路从格尔木到拉萨的中间点, 也就顺理成章成为了司机的休息站,平房与公路之间留出大片空地, 停满了歇脚的大卡车, 人车不分昼夜在其间穿行, 雁石坪也就不分昼夜忙乱。雁石坪镇现已明确归属西藏安多县，估计现在管治真空已经没有了罢。以前雁石坪镇前后数十公里手机无讯号，现在也是&ldquo;中国移动，远处不在！&rdquo; 
 住宿推荐：镇政府二楼&ldquo;雁石坪镇宾馆&rdquo;、雁石坪道班。或是一些小店如杂货店等提供的床铺,价钱一般在每床15至20元之间。特别注意：晚上留在屋內, 不要外出！ 
 
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 雁石坪附近。 
 D14&nbsp;&nbsp;雁石坪（海拔4713）&mdash;唐古拉兵站（海拔4980）：51km，总里程：1338km。 
 
 出雁石坪一段沿著河边骑行,52公里起伏中上坡到达唐古拉山兵站。兵站所在的温泉处于雪山下宽谷中，而温泉就是青海境内的最后一个小镇, 也是攀越唐古拉山的滩头堡。 
 
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 远处红屋顶的是兵站 
 据说唐古拉兵站现在已经不能住旅客，就看你自己的运气吧。附近的私人旅店也可提供住宿，不过条件都比较差。据说兵站附近晚上有狗熊，提醒注意。 
 晚餐推荐：兵站对面回民饭店&ldquo;高原达吾羊肉馆&rdquo;，味道还不错。可吃可住， 少量床位。 
 唐古拉肯定会有一个溫泉泡浴池在附近，具体地点可向回民饭店老板查询哈。D15&nbsp;&nbsp;唐古拉兵站（海拔4980）&mdash;唐古拉山口（海拔5231）－第一道班（海拔5070）：57km，总里程：1395km 
 
 今天我们将翻越青藏线最高的山－－唐古拉山。相比青藏沿线的其它高山大岭，唐古拉山路段的坡道算不上最漫长，甚至还称不上陡峭。但对这座巍峨和美丽的大山，我们依然要充满敬畏。也许是她的绝对高度赋予这段道路某种特殊的意义！－－海拔5231公尺的山口，不单是青藏公路， 也许是你人生旅途的最高点！ 
 温泉出发30公里小上坡, 15公里中上坡, 3公里大上坡(烂路), 到达海拔5231公尺的唐古拉山口。 
 
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 唐古拉山上。七月，还可能会有雪。 
 山口是青藏两省天然分界线也是109国道最高点. 山口前后20公里的路段天气变幻莫测, 多下雨雹, 空气含氧量低. 山口附近风大寒冷, 要加衣保暖.。 
 
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 接近唐古拉山口的烂路(你看到的情况可能会比这个更糟） 
 
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 唐古拉山口 
 由于天气不稳定, 翻越唐古拉山要多预留时间, 尤应尽量提早出发, 避过山上午后的多变天气。山口前后几公里路面破烂, 泥泞满途, 骑速很慢, 很花时间。 
 山口过后下坡10公里, 到达第一道班(海拔5070)。道班虽然较大，但住宿和饮食条件都相对较差，故不推荐住宿。但如果体力上实在没办法，住下那就是全程海拔最高的住宿点。 
 D16&nbsp;&nbsp;天下第一道班（海拔5070）&mdash;小唐古拉山口（海拔5167）&mdash;安多（海拔4706）：78km，总里程：1473km 
 
 継续骑向安多：第一道班过后下坡2公里, 立即中上坡28公里到头二九山山口(头二九山又名小唐古拉山）。连翻两山很耗体力。过山口即进入西藏境内的羌塘高原, 两旁雪山连绵, 蓝天草原相映. 头二九山山口接着的是5公里大下坡和38公里起伏小下坡到达海拔4706公尺的藏区县城－安多。 
 
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 小唐古拉山口（头二九山） 
 安多是进入西藏后的第一个大城镇，大街上有寬敞的行人道, 人多车多，既熟悉又陌生的城市感觉。 
 安多住宿比较紧张, 尤其在旺季，自驾车的多在这里歇息。主要住宿旅店集中在进城左手第一条街。住宿推荐有：安多世纪宾馆、安多宾馆、玉兰招待所、电信招待所等，其中电信招待所条件最好，住宿也最贵。 
 D17&nbsp;&nbsp;安多（海拔4706）&mdash;申格里贡山口（海拔4881）－札仁镇－果组乡&mdash;那曲（海拔4574）：135km，总里程：1608km 
 
 今天将迎来青藏线格尔木－拉萨段最陡的上坡路。 
 公路沿着平缓草原向前伸延, 8公里过后就来到申格里贡山脚下。抬头望着盘旋在头顶的盘山公路，心中充满敬畏之情的同时，山下不大的路牌向我们提示要面对的路况：连续7公里上坡路到申格里贡山口。上坡的路开始较陡，难度一般（自信哈！）。 
 
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 申格里贡山口，居然没有牌子。 
 札仁镇在申格里贡山口向南26公里,，有明显的路标。你可以在这里午餐和休息。镇子不在路边, 要拐进一条沙石路, 約500米可见藏族村居。这里只有一家由藏民经营的茶店, 有面条吃, 也可请求住宿, 但条件简陋。除了店主略通，其他镇民大多不会汉语。 
 
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 札仁镇离那曲约97公里，基本上均为起伏的小下坡路。 
 从札仁镇37公里起伏小下坡到一个不知名道班， 再前行2公里到果组乡，最后 58公里起伏小下坡到那曲。 
 网友红珊瑚的建议：安多到那曲虽说是起伏路, 总体还是以下坡为主, 如果路上沒有遭遇特別恶劣的天气(暴雨或强逆风)，一天骑到那曲绝对可以。车友如果有此计划的话, 在安多宜提早出发, 不要花时间进扎仁镇, 自带午餐或在路边的果组乡吃泡面。 
 作为地区的首府, 那曲已接近一般城市的规模, 街道纵横交错, 霓虹闪闪, 商店林立。 
 让我们喜出望外的是：这座城区已经有了自来水和不同档次的宾馆和餐店。我们可以选一家带淋浴的宾馆，当然花钱也较贵。格尔木出发以来，你可能已经连着10天沒有洗澡了。 
 如果单从人文的角度去观察：那曲比拉萨具有更浓厚的藏族特色和风情。经过这里的市集, 你轻易嗅到藏区特有的酥油和藏香, 又或者是因为那些装扮传统的藏人(很多是远道而来)构建了这座城市特有的风景, 还有那些茶桶, 那些酥油, 香料和茶饼......即使你把这些生活点滴都摄入镜头, 却还是不可能完全掌握这个城市的真相－－精神面貌显然不是随便用照相机就能捕捉下来。－－这就是那曲。D18&nbsp;&nbsp;那曲（海拔4574）－罗马镇－桑雄乡－古露：99km，总里程：1707km 
 
 那曲出发, 一路起伏小上坡, 27公里到罗马镇道班, 再骑23公里到另一道班, 再向前22公里到桑雄乡。起伏小上坡, 27公里到古露。 
 
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 今天的路，路况良好 
 那曲是西藏最大的牧区, 遍野都能见到牛羊。那曲到古露（海拔4673米）上坡还是不少，古露过后当然下坡就很多了。 
 
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 羌塘草原、牛羊成群。&ldquo;风吹草低见牦牛&rdquo;，或者说是牛魔王的弟子接驾跚跚来迟？ 
 古露因为附近的冰川而聞名, 也因为有了车站而繁华。 
 D19&nbsp; &nbsp;古露&mdash;藏北八塔－当雄（海拔4307）：66km，总里程：1773km 
 
 从古露出发小上坡33公里到藏北八塔, 接著39公里起伏下坡到当雄。一路路况良好！不过唐古拉山过后, 由安多向南的地方夏天多雨雹, 时有倾盘大雨, 多逆风。 
 
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 藏北八塔 
 注意：去&ldquo;那木措&rdquo;需要经过的中转地是当雄！ 
 所以，今天早点出发，早点到当雄后，早点提起兴趣，早点考虑去一趟&ldquo;那木措&rdquo;湖哈！ 
 当雄是青藏线除那曲之外另一个有自來水淋浴和冲水马桶的住宿点。一条宽敞的大街贯通整个城镇，两旁很多不同档次的宾馆旅店，看你自己吧，丰俭随人。挑选一家有淋浴的旅馆吧！ 
 
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 那木措 
 那木措（扎西半岛）旅行参考： 
 纳木错不靠近国道，距当雄约70公里。但中途要攀过那根拉山口(海拔5190)， 这个山路比青藏线上任何一个山路都要陡：在不到20公里的路段要爬升800至900多米。过了山口下坡后, 还要骑20多公里才到扎西, 很可能是逆风。 
 如果人多, 可以在当雄合租一个房间放下大部分行李, 轻车上路, 否则过&quot;那根拉&quot;有够受。骑车的话安排上可能要用两天。 
 或者：傍晚前骑到当雄，租一个房间安顿自行车和行李后，包车到纳木措看日落。住宿纳木錯，第二天早上看日出，浏览湖区。如果能找到五六个人合租车子可能更划算. 在当雄包车(当地藏民的面包车, 六个人平均每人不到80元, 已包门票), 如果自己进去可能免不了还是要付80元门票。由于路况较好，故面包车已足够，没必要租越野车，因为太贵。坐车的话也可以选择当天往返。 
 PS：弥漫着商业气息的扎西半岛，昂贵而难吃的饭菜，一直尾随你兜售小商品的小贩等等，可能会让你没有一点兴致。 
 D20&nbsp;&nbsp;当雄（海拔4307）&mdash;念青唐古拉山（海拔4500）&mdash;羊八井（海拔4284）：75km，总里程：1848km。 
 
 当雄出发后不久，远远就已看到了白雪覆盖的念青唐古拉山脉。小下坡20公里左右，再缓上坡，才来到念青唐古拉山口。 
 
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 远远的看到念青唐古拉山 
 过山口后, 还有10公里在山麓上的起伏。－－先下坡一小段再爬升羊八岭, 又下坡一小段再次爬升到拿多拉山。拿多拉山口过后一路下坡到羊八井。 
 今天如果爬坡路段沒有遭遇太强的逆风, 一天骑到拉萨是没有问题的，但必须要提早出发。不过如果碰到逆风，还是非常痛苦的。 
 今天本来可以一直杀到拉萨的，但我们想想，还是FBFB吧。我们在羊八井停留一晚，泡泡当地很有名的温泉。当然，温泉还是比较贵，要98元左右一人哈。 
 
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 念青唐古拉山口。 
 D21&nbsp;&nbsp;羊八井（海拔4284）&mdash;拉萨（海拔3650）：75km，总里程：1923km。 
 今天可以懒洋洋的起床，然后懒洋洋的出发，最后懒洋洋的到达拉萨。&mdash;&mdash;因为今天只有有最后的75km了。 
 出羊八井后，有一段峡谷非常漂亮，而且一路下坡。出峡谷后，西藏田园风光就展现在我们眼前。我们再接着下坡75公里, 沿著拉萨河一路骑到目的地。 
 
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 七月的拉萨附近，田园风光 
 今天的路程不用太赶，如果想休息的话，路边随便找个草地就可以天当被盖、地当床了哈。嘿嘿嘿！转贴：轻羽飞扬关于青藏线的几点忠告</td>
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